Walking on the wild side
Bally has introduced fresh, new styles for the younger generation in its spring-summer 2023 fashion collection, and it’s a walk on the wild side.
The luxury brand, which started as Swiss shoemakers in 1851 and was my father’s holy-grail footwear throughout his career, was given youthful, 21st-century edge by Filipino creative director Rhuigi Villaseñor, who recently departed the house and whose last collection will be autumn-winter 2023.
“When I discovered the Bally universe, it was clear to me that my energy and my point of view would be the catalyst for a renaissance, two decades since the last Bally runway show,” said Rhuigi. “Placing Swiss craft and European art of living in harmony with my own American story, I’ve called this collection ‘Ecdysis’ — a reset and a celebration of radical luxury.”
Ecdysis, defined as “metamorphosis,” is apt for Villaseñor’s collection, which transforms Bally’s 171-year-old codes into something altogether new and fashion-forward.
I suggest you snag items from Rhuigi’s current and coming collection before new design director Simone Bellotti, formerly of Gucci, presents his debut SS24 collection for Bally at Milan Fashion Week this September.
While Bally’s main signifier is the red and white stripe, now the brand has introduced a new emblem in which two letter Bs interlock to form an infinity sign. It’s an instantly identifiable logo that you’ll see in a lot of the shoes, clothes, jewelry, and bags.
Particularly eye-catching are Bally’s oversized weekender bags, made of faux crocodile leather. Despite their size, they’re light, extremely roomy and have special gold TSA locks.
A shoe made from fishermen’s nets
Another new Bally signature is a metal cube adorned with crystals hand-placed by artisans, seen in the women’s sculptural stiletto heels — a nod to the Swiss tradition of toy making.
Another important style in women’s footwear is the crystal-mesh shoe, crafted from actual fisherman’s nets, so it’s very sustainable. The delicate netting is dyed and dotted with tiny, hand-placed crystals, so it sparkles prettily under the light.
Bally also has a lot of python and crocodile footwear — even on chic slippers that European men wear outside of the house — that are not made from those animals’ skins but are actually lightweight goat leather printed with a special technique. The sneakers are gender-neutral, and many of the shoes are hand-stained for a vintage feel.
European luxury through an American lens
Since Bally is a shoemaker, the house wanted to incorporate RTW into their collections, and Rhuigi did that, exploring European luxury through his Fil-American, West Coast lens.
He added the ease of sportswear to Bally’s DNA, but made it luxurious with a new sensuality and glamour. Key pieces include lemon-colored shantung silk pajamas (of course meant to be worn out of the house), logo sweaters and double-breasted tailoring made of breathable summer wool, and a unisex tiger-print suit in silk velvet.
Crafted in Rhuigi’s hometown of Los Angeles, engineered denim meets Bally’s leather craftsmanship, from suede to polished calfskin and stretch nappa. One jacket is suede on the outside but fully lined with leather on the inside — so buttery-soft, luxe, yet still lightweight.
I saw a classic pair of loafers — the kind my father would have worn — constructed of hard, structured leather that has to be broken in, but molds to your feet as the years go by, with the modern twist of melted baroque hardware.
For me that encapsulated what Bally is all about now: almost 200 years of heritage but metamorphosing into a brand that both older and younger generations can love.
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In the Philippines, Bally is exclusively distributed by Stores Specialists, Inc., and is located at Greenbelt 5, Rustan’s Makati, Shangri-La Plaza, City of Dreams, Power Plant Mall and Newport Mall. Visit www.ssilife.com.ph or follow @ssilifeph on Instagram for more information.
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